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There's a pristine little room at the back of a ­crumbling monument in the Polish town of Oswiecim that few people could fail to be moved

It’s a simple square room with windows that look out over astonishingly ­beautiful woodland that autumn has coloured in a kaleidoscope of browns, oranges and reds. On the four walls are hundreds of sepia-tinted photos, some frayed around the edges, others so perfect that they could have been taken by a professional snapper yesterday.